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Lever Box Belay Devices

The Petzl Grigri is a very popular belay device, the newer Trango Cinch is gaining popularity, and the Faders SUM may do the same with time. I think one of these might make a good choice for commercial climbing gyms and for certain big-wall climbing situations. They are each large and heavy when compared to a belay plate or tube, and they cannot be used for double rope rappels (at least not easily), so I seldom bother to carry one on trad climbing trips.

I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Lever Box Belay Device:

  • One rigs the device by opening it and placing the rope inside.
  • There is a control lever that operates a cam or similar device inside.
  • They can provide a "hands off" belay (but don't rely on it!)

The early example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Petzl Grigri.

Gallery

Image ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume
Bornak Lory 1867 Bornak Lory Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate Alpinsport Basis GmbH, 2015 364 127 71 36 326
Camp Druid Pro 1895 Camp Druid Forged Al frame, spring loaded pivoting rope channel, spring loaded release lever OmniProGear, 2017 276 65 120 47 371
Camp Druid Pro 1892 Camp Druid Pro Forged Al frame, spring loaded pivoting rope channel, spring loaded release lever Expé-Spelemat, 2015 280 65 120 47 371
Camp Matic 1873 Camp Matic Forged Al frame, spring loaded pivoting rope channel, spring loaded release lever Expé-Spelemat, 2015 277 65 120 47 371
Edelrid Eddy 858 Edelrid Eddy Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate Mountain Gear, 2007 367 127 71 36 320
Faders SUM 830 Faders SUM Cast Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate Devonshire Imports, 2006 254 138 65 33 295
Fixe Tapir 887 Fixe Tapir Milled Al frame, milled pentagonal Al cam /w milled conrol lever, stamped pivoting Al cover Olivier Peron Caillet, 2008 273 120 76 48 431
Mad Rock Lifeguard 1889 Mad Rock Lifeguard Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate CampFour, 2016 155 94 47 39 171
Petzl Grigri 626
1622
2668
Petzl Grigri Stamped frame, forged cam, spring loaded, release handle, single rope
  • Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1992
  • Charles Denning, 2009
  • Bob Thrun Collection, 2017
225 118 68 43 345
Petzl Grigri 2 1727 Petzl Grigri 2 Stamped frame, forged cam, spring loaded, release handle, single rope gotyourgear.com, 2011 171 101 57 44 253
Singing Rock Sir 1851 Singing Rock Sir Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, spring loaded, hinged cover plate amazon.com, 2015 366 126 73 36 330
Todd Handled Belay Device 1616 Todd Handled Belay Device Milled Al frame, round Al cam /w SS control lever pivoting Al cover Peter Todd, 2008 922 208 51 72 761
Todd-Storrick Handled Belay Device 1617 Todd-Storrick Handled Belay Device Milled Al frame, round Al cam /w SS control lever pivoting Al cover Dr. Gary D. Storrick, 2008 756 210 47 67 656
Trango Cinch, Version A 802 Trango Cinch, Version A Cast steel body, milled Al cover, plastic handle, single rope Mountain Gear, 2004 180 75 73 34 185
Trango Cinch, Version B 1776
2669
Trango Cinch, Version B Cast steel body, milled Al cover, plastic handle, single rope
  • Unique Outfitters, 2012
  • Bob Thrun Collection, 2017
187 76 77 36 215
Trango Vergo 1887 Trango Vergo Forged Al frame, pivoting rope channel, plastic lever Moosejaw, 2016 193 103 58 32 189
Ural-Alp Ya-ya 788 Ural-Alp Ya-ya Al frame, 3 bollards, stop lever/w pulley, fixed anvil, folding handle Alvo-Titanium, 2003 278 160 96 38 584

 

Lever Box Belay Weight Chart