Next Previous

Slotted "Sticht" Plate Belayers

The first belay plate that became popular in my area was the Salewa Sticht plate, so any plate with one or two slotted holes is generically referred to as a Sticht Plate, even though this isn't legally correct. The initial hesitation in using these plates (instead of a hip belay!) was soon overcome. I've switched to using a belay tube now, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a slotted belay plate instead.

Some of the belay plates are incredibly lightweight. They don't have much reserve metal to allow any substantial wear, so I would avoid them. Most of the standard plates have a large reserve and are not likely to fail under normal wear.

Sticht plates with springs seem to be easier to use and don't bind as much as the ones without; however, the spring tends to get caught on everything when not in use.

Slot length is an important factor in determining the friction provided by the device, so I've added a column giving the slot length(s) in millimeters. Remember, the slot lengthens as the plate wears.

I use the following criteria to decide whether to call something a Sticht Plate:

  • The device consists of a plate with one or two slots that accept a rope bight (for single rope) or two (for double rope).
  • When rigged, a carabiner on the seat harness or anchor captures the bight(s).
  • The device may have a spring attached to keep the device away from the rigging carabiner.
  • The plate is flat on the top and bottom (this eliminates the similar Slotted Block Belay Devices, although I bent the criteria by including the Cassin #217 and Kong Gi-gi here).

The early example that I use for comparison when I consider placing a device into this category is the Salewa Sticht plate. Some small examples like the REI 11/11 may also fit the written criteria that I use for defining a Tube Belayers, so I used my version of common sense to decide.

Gallery

Image ID Device Description Acquired Weight Height Width Thickness Std. volume Slot Length
Advanced Base Camp, Version A 748 Advanced Base Camp, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring Yucca Dune, 2001 83 63 63 45 179 29.2
Advanced Base Camp, Version B 1829 Advanced Base Camp, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring Travis Piper, 2014 91 63 63 42 167 29.0
Camp, Version A 774 Camp, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring Barrabés.com, 2003 81 63 63 43 171 29.5
Camp, Version B 1600 Camp, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring Alec Rowley, 2008 87 63 63 44 173 29.1
Camp Ovo 1628 Camp Ovo Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring Needle Sports, 2009 57 113 51 9 54 49.9
Cassin #217, Version A 723 Cassin #217, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Climb Max, 1999 64 94 54 11 56 46.1
Cassin #217, Version B 865 Cassin #217, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Walkhigh Mountaineering, 2007 62 94 53 11 53 46.1
Cassin #221.02 602 Cassin #221.02 Forged Al, hardcoat, round, 2 slots, spring Exkursion, 1993 78 64 64 50 205 29.2
30.9
Cassin #221.11 697 Cassin #221.11 Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots Exkursion, 1996 65 65 65 13 55 30.7
Cassin #221.12 696 Cassin #221.12 Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring 1996 85 64 64 50 205 30.9
Chain Link 603 Chain Link Welded steel rod 1970s 51 51 34 9 16 34.5
Chouinard 11 604 Chouinard 11
Forged Al, unfinished, single slot Skinny Skis, 1980 13 47 22 11 11 30.6
Chouinard 9/9 813 Chouinard 9/9
Forged Al, unfinished, two slots Mike Adams, 2005 20 44 33 12 18 27.0
Climbing Technology Kaiser 1602 Climbing Technology Kaiser Forged Al, polished, 2 slots, 2 notches, round eye Au Vieux Campeur, 2008 81 129 47 20 122 41.3
Clog, Version A 811 Clog, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots John Vaartjes, 2005 58 63 63 15 57 29.4
Clog, Version B 837 Clog, Version B  Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper  Joe MacLeod, 2006 75 179 63 15 162 29.4
Clog Cosmic Arrestor 680 Clog Cosmic Arrestor Forged, unfinished, 2 slots Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 64 62 62 14 54 29.5
CMI Micro Belay Plate 605 CMI Micro Belay Plate Forged Al, hardcoat, single slot John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 11 47 25 10 12 32.9
CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate 606 CMI Micro Twin Belay Plate Forged Al, hardcoat, double slot John E. Weinel, Inc., 1988 16 40 39 10 16 23.8
CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A 868 CMI Rescue Belay Brake, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches Tom Vines, 2007 120 89 89 10 77 32.7
CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B 607 CMI Rescue Belay Brake. Version B Forged Al, hard anodized, large slot, 4 notches John E. Weinel, Inc. 114 89 89 10 79 37.0
DMM Betterbrake 608 DMM Betterbrake Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots 1990 69 64 64 14 57 29.3
Forrest 1773 Forrest Milled Al Plate, 1 slot Stéphane Pennequin, 2008 30 67 38 6 16 32.9
GAB 9/11, Version A 831 GAB 9/11,
Version A
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Todd Paris, 2005 96 66 66 48 209 27.4
32.4
GAB 9/11, Version B 896 GAB 9/11,
Version B
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Stephen Bailey, 2008 96 68 66 48 214 27.0
32.0
GAB 9/11, Version C 1613 GAB 9/11,
Version C
Forged Al, hard anodized 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Jaime Bothwell, 2008 98 68 67 48 217 27.0
32.0
GAB 11/11 798 GAB 11/11 Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots Rachel Boersma, 2004 63 64 64 10 41 30.4
Hugh Banner, Version A 678 Hugh Banner, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 32 46 44 13 26 28.4
Hugh Banner, Version B 662 Hugh Banner, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot, cable keeper Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1994 35 46 44 13 26 28.6
Hugh Banner, Version C 611 Hugh Banner, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, rod keeper Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1993 44 46 44 62 125 28.3
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version A 665
1631
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, spring
  • Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994
  • Zachary Britner, 2009
80 64 64 41 168 29.0
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B 775 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots Barrabés.com, 2003 59 64 64 10 42 29.0
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C 814 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots Marcus Warme, 2005 59 64 64 10 42 29.0
Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version D 1761 Hugh Banner Bigger Brake, Version D Forged Al, unfinished, round, 2 slots, plastic-covered cable keeper Tom Furey, 2012 63 190 64 10 123 29.1
Hugh Banner, Version D 1800 Hugh Banner "Sticht" Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer John Blackmore, 2013 89 64 64 47 195 27.7
34.0
Kong 839 Kong Forged steel, plated, 2 slots Lorenzo Dotti, 2006 54 60 45 8 22 45.0
Kong Full 1824 Kong Full (864.15) Forged Al, hard anodized, 2 slots, 1 oval and 3 round eyes. Outdoor Shopping, 2014 103 125 90 10 115 45.1
Kong Gi-gi, Version A 689 Kong Gi-gi, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Inner Mountain Outfitters, 1995 71 113 50 17 96 49.8
Kong Gi-gi, Version B 801 Kong Gi-gi, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes eBay, 2004 66 114 50 16 91 50.0
Kong Gi-gi, Version C 1618 Kong Gi-gi, Version C Forged Al, hard anodized 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Dan MacKinnon, 2009 63 113 49 12 69 50.0
Krok SS 1804 Krok SS Milled Al, painted, 2 long rope slots, 2 round eyes Gear4Rocks, 2013 49 91 46 10 43 41.3
MSR Belay Link, Version A 615 MSR Belay Link, Version A Welded Al chain link Mountain Safety Research 22 53 36 10 19 34.5
MSR Belay Link, Version B 876 MSR Belay Link, Version B Welded Al chain link, soft anodized Bill Ivanoff, 2007 25 50 38 11 21 31.4
Mystery Origin 3-slot Device 616 Mystery Origin 3-slot Device Forged steel, unfinished, 3 slots Ed Sira, 1991 115 99 498 7 345 34.0
Outside 854 Outside Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 2 keeper cord holes Graham Barrett, 2007 37 51 46 10 24 28.2
31.8
PBI 617 PBI Stamped? Al, hard anodized, single slot International Mountaineering 28 68 38 6 16 33.4
REI 618
1643
REI Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots
  • Recreational Equipment Inc., 1985
  • Duane Frerichs, 2009
39 51 43 15 33 31.9
Russian, Version A 474 Russian, Version A Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 88 110 67 10 74 38.8
Russian, Version B 493 Russian, Version B Milled Al, unfinished, 2 slots, 4 horns, 2 eyes John E. Weinel, Inc., 1990 77 96 70 10 67 36.4
Salewa 9/11, Version A 899 Salewa 9/11, Version A Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring Alec Rowley, 2008 81 61 61 42 157 29.6
31.2
Salewa 9/11, Version B 1743 Salewa 9/11, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper Claudio Fontanari, 2012 46 51 54 67 187 27.2
33.0
Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A 812 Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots S. Koch, 2005 64 66 66 10 44 27.5
Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B 851 Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Jayme Trombly, 2007 65 61 61 10 38 27.5
Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version C 1748 Salewa Sticht, 9/9, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Brian Bowness, 2012 70 66 66 10 45 28.6
Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version A 790 Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot Mike Adams, 2003 61 67 67 10 45 27.0
32.2
Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version B 1679 Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot Harald Müller, 2010 64 66 66 10 43 26.9
31.8
Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version C 1700 Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot Thomas Kopp, 2010 55 63 63 10 39 27.5
32.9
Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version D 1704 Salewa Sticht, 9/11, Version D Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot Sidney Evans, 2010 63 66 65 10 41 27.0
32.6
Salewa Sticht, 11, Version A 1712 Salewa Sticht, 11, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot Thomas Cravens, 2011 39 67 34 10 23 33.0
Salewa Sticht, 11, Version B 891 Salewa Sticht, 11, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot Jim Chaney, 2008 76 64 64 10 199 30.6
Salewa Sticht, 11, Version C 1678 Salewa Sticht, 11, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 1 slot Harald Müller, 2010 69 63 63 10 40 30.2
Salewa Sticht, 11/11 621 Salewa Sticht, 11/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots 1974 54 61 61 10 37 33.0
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version A 849 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer Gareth Parry, 2007 96 68 66 45 202 28.0
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version B 1677 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/9, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer Harald Müller, 2010 96 67 66 48 211 26.9
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version A 620 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer 1970s 96 66 66 48 209 26.8
32.8
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version B 826
1729
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version B Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer
  • Patrice St. Germain, 2005
  • Steve Booth, 2011
98 67 68 42 191 26.8
32.8
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version C 855 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Craig Kubanoff, 2007 98 66 67 46 203 27.0
33.0
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version D 1695
1696
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version D Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer
  • Jeff Levin, 2010
  • Steve Booth, 2011
97 68 67 48 215 27.3
33.6
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version E 1730 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 9/11, Version E Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, spring & retainer Steve Booth, 2011 94 68 66 47 211 26.5
31.9
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version A 827 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & retainer Patrice St. Germain, 2005 108 65 66 46 199 30.6
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version B 600 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized, 1 large slot, spring Alec Rowley, 2008 98 66 65 45 194 30.7
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version C 1641 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version C Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring & straight retainer Mark Adler, 2009 106 66 65 49 208 31
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version D 1642 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11, Version D Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large slot, spring, no retainer Mark Adler, 2009 92 64 65 47 197 31
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version A 844 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version A Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, spring & retainer Zak Ryersbach, 2007 86 64 67 44 190 31.7
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version B 1733 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version B Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer Jean Husband, 2011 99 68 66 46 204 30.2
Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version C 1734 Salewa Sticht (/w spring), 11/11. Version C Forged Al, painted, 2 slots, spring & retainer Jean Husband, 2011 99 68 66 49 218 30.2
Single Rope Technique BP1 623 Single Rope Technique BP1 Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots Raven Products, 1990 50 61 61 10 37 28.7
Single Rope Technique BPS 624 Single Rope Technique BPS Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots, screwed spring Raven Products, 1990 89 61 61 46 171 29.9
Trango, Version A 675 Trango, Version A Forged Al, hard anodized, round, 2 slots, spring Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 80 63 63 48 191 28.9
30.9
Trango, Version B 679 Trango, Version B Forged Al, soft anodized, round, 2 slots Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 69 63 63 11 44 28.9
30.9
Troll 1756 Troll Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slot Tom Furey, 2012 61 63 63 11 43 29.2
Unknown, 9/11 795 Unknown, 9/11 Forged Al, unfinished, 1 large & 1 small slot, keeper hole Shawn Hinz, 2004 60 58 60 11 36 26.8
32.2
Unknown 11, Version A 1610 Unknown 11, Version A Milled Al, cable keeper crimped through holes eBay, 2008 45 67 38 87 223 33.2
Unknown 11, Version B 1605 Unknown 11, Version B Milled Al, shrink-tube covered cable keeper crimped through holes eBay, 2008 46 67 39 75 192 33.0
Viking Dynabrake 1785 Viking Dynabrake Forged Al, polished, 2 slots Jene Mercer, 2012 75 65 60 14 56 29.9
Wild Country Brakeman 681 Wild Country Brakeman Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots Ragged Mountain Equipment, 1994 35 51 46 10 23 28.2
30.9
Wild Country Wired Brakeman 672 Wild Country Wired Brakeman Forged Al, unfinished, 2 slots, cable keeper Exkursion, 1994 48 51 46 10 23 28.2
31.2
Zero-G ZBD Sprung Belay Plate 875 Zero-G ZBD Sprung Belay Plate Forged Al, soft anodized, 2 slots, spring Cotswold Outdoor, 2007 81 63 63 41 162 29.2
31.0

Sticht Plate Weight Chart

Sticht Slot Chart