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Advanced Base Camp

Friction 8 Friction 8 (Notch)
Friction 8 Friction 8 (Notch)
 
Mini Version A Version B
Mini Version A Version B

Overview


Friction 8
(#591)

Front Rear
Front Rear

Technical Details

I acquired this eight from Yucca Dune in 2001.

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 is forged from aluminum alloy and then soft anodized. Mine is 128 mm. tall, 74 mm wide, and 14 mm. thick. The rope hole is 69 mm. high and 51 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 13 mm. and 25 mm., respectively. The eye measures 24 mm. by 28 mm. My eight weighs 93 g.

The front side of this eight is marked with the ABC logo and "MADE IN EEC - kN 25." The rear is stamped "05 LF."

Comments

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 is identical to the Trango Belay 8 except it does not have the eye liner that the Trango Belay 8 has. I think that this makes the Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 slightly more difficult to use, but the difference is so small that I expect half the people would disagree. Like the Trango, this eight is specially designed to be used for belaying with the rope rigged in the normal figure eight fashion. In my mind, most eights do not have enough friction to be used for belaying in this manner, which is why many eights have slots so they can be used as a slotted belay plate. The shape of the Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 allows the rope to wedge in the groove, generating extra friction. This works rather well, but the rope can bind at times, so releasing the belay is not always smooth.

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 is lighter than most figure eights.


Friction 8 (Notch)
(#1055)

Front Rear
Front Rear

Technical Details

I acquired this eight from Moosineer in 2007.

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 (Notch) is forged from aluminum alloy and then soft anodized. Mine is 128 mm. tall, 73 mm. wide, and 13 mm. thick. The rope hole is 69 mm. high and 51 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 27 mm. and 26 mm., respectively. The eye measures 24 mm. by 27 mm. My eight weighs 99 g.

The Trango Belay 8 has a urethane eye liner that limits the size of the eye, holding the attachment carabiner centered. The resulting eye opening measures 11 mm. by 11 mm.

The front side of this eight is marked with the ABC logo and "MADE IN EEC - kN 25." The rear is stamped "0100." The front and rear of the eye liner are stamped with an "S," another "S," an "E" and"PATENT ITALY."

Comments

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 (Notch) is essentially identical to the Trango Belay 8, Version B. The keeper in the eye keeps the eight from shifting on the carabiner, but the opening is too small for most standard carabiners.

The Advanced Base Camp Friction 8 (Notch) is lighter than most figure eights.

This eight came on a sales card that was labeled "Made in Taiwan," but the eight is marked "MADE IN EEC." That is curious, since I thought Taiwan was in Asia, not Europe. I think that the mounting card came from Taiwan.


Mini
(#1053, 1255)

Front Rear
Front Rear

Technical Details

I acquired this eight from Moosineer in 2007. I acquired a second one from GotYourGear.com in 2009.

The Advanced Base Camp Mini is forged from aluminum alloy and then clear anodized. Mine is 115 mm. tall, 70 mm. wide, and 14 mm. thick. The rope hole is 41 mm. high and 48 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 34 mm. and 22 mm., respectively. The eye measures 20 mm. by 24 mm. My Mini weighs 98 g.

The front side of this eight is marked with the ABC logo and "MADE IN EEC - kN 25." The front is also stamped "0305" (month of manufacture?) near the top.

Comments

The Advanced Base Camp Mini is a typical example of a "mini" size, forged, aluminum eight. The Advanced Base Camp Mini is lighter than most figure eights. The eye is too small for Sticht-type belaying.


Version A
(#1054, 1348)

Front Rear
Front Rear

Technical Details

I acquired this eight from Moosineer in 2007, and a second one from acmeclimbing.com in 2008.

The Advanced Base Camp, Version A is forged from aluminum alloy and then clear anodized. Mine is 131 mm. tall, 75 mm. wide, and 13 mm. thick. The rope hole is 48 mm. high and 48 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 43 mm. and 25 mm., respectively. The eye measures 19 mm. by 25 mm. My Version A weighs 105 g.

The front side of this eight is marked with the ABC logo and the rear with "kN25."

Comments

The Advanced Base Camp, Version A is another typical example of a "midi" size, forged, aluminum eight. It is essentially identical to Version B and the AustriAlpin, Camp Version B, Camp/Lowe Versions A and B, CH, CT Ltd., Lucky Ecos Mini, Mammut Versions B and D, and the Salewa Midi. The polished finish will wear quickly.


Version B
(#915)

Front Rear
Front Rear

Technical Details

I acquired this eight from On Rope in 2002.

The Advanced Base Camp, Version B is forged from aluminum alloy and then soft anodized. Mine is 132 mm. tall, 74 mm wide, and 13 mm. thick. The rope hole is 48 mm. high and 48 mm. wide. The top center thickness is 11 mm. The shaft length and width are 44 mm. and 24 mm., respectively. The eye measures 18 mm. by 25 mm. My Version B weighs 106 g.

The front side of this eight is marked with the ABC logo and "MADE IN EEC - kN 25." The front is also stamped "0301" (month of manufacture?) near the top.

Comments

The Advanced Base Camp, Version B is a typical example of a "midi" size, forged, aluminum eight. It is essentially identical to Version A and the AustriAlpin, Camp Version B, Camp/Lowe Versions A and B, CH, CT Ltd., Lucky Ecos Mini, Mammut Versions B and D, and the Salewa Midi. This eight will wear quickly because the soft anodizing provides little protection.